May/June 1999 Issue

Fashionable Santo Domingo

Five centuries of culture and tradition converge in the Dominican Republic, an island that the native peoples referred to as Quisqueya—Mother Earth—and on first sighting made Columbus pronounce: “There is no more beautiful island in the world.” The Dominican Republic shares the rugged island of Hispaniola with Haiti, which occupies the western third.
   Bartholoméo Columbus, brother of Christopher, founded the oldest surviving European settlement in the Americas and capital of the Dominican Republic, Santo Domingo, in 1496. Originally named New Isabella, the city, on the southern shore of the country, was the base for Spanish exploration and conquest of the continent: Ponce de León sailed to discover Puerto Rico, Hernán Cortés launched his attack on Mexico, Balboa discovered the Pacific, and Diego de Velázquez set out to settle Cuba.
   Santo Domingo is where Europe’s first social and political activities in the Americas took place. The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) has designated Santo Domingo a World Cultural Heritage site.
   The oldest part of the city, on the west bank of the Rio Ozama, has many fine 16th-century buildings. Restoration of this area has resulted in attractive open-air cafés and pleasant squares near the waterfront Avenida del Puerto. Here there is a compelling Latin vibrancy as crowds gather for their evening promenade.
   Hidden by its ancient walls above the Avenida del Puerto lies the city, an enclave with coral-rock alleyways and shady courtyards. This is home to the Alcazar de Colón—Columbus Palace—built in 1514 for Columbus’s son Diego. The solid stone house is fronted by a double row of arches and has recently been restored and furnished with period tapestries and furnishings.
In its shadow lies La Atarazana, which once contained the customs houses and colonial armory, one of the New World’s finest arsenals. Extending a full city block, it now houses the Museum of Marine Archaeology, stores, art galleries, pubs, and restaurants. The city’s oldest surviving building is the Casa del Cordón, built in 1503. Now a bank, it still has the Franciscan order’s cord motif carved above its door.
   From the Alcazar, the city walls lead to Calle de las Damas (Street of the Ladies), named after the colonial ladies who would promenade there. Here, set in former colonial offices, is the Museo de las Casas Reales, exhibiting many items from early Spanish colonial times, including suits of armor and wall maps. The Panteón Nacional guards an eternal flame commemorating Dominican national heroes, Duarte, Sanchez, and Mella, who formed the underground movement that eventually won independence for the republic in 1844.
   The Plaza de Toledo alley leads into the Parque Colón—Columbus Square—where a statue of the explorer overlooks benches and trees. On the southern side of the square is the Catedral Santa Maria de Menor, Primada de America, with its pointed battlements, the oldest cathedral in the Americas, completed in 1523.
   From the Parque Colón, El Conde, one of the city’s busiest shopping streets, leads to the Parque Independencia, the hub of the modern city. All distances in the country are measured from this point. Leading off the square, the Avenida Mella is another shopping street.
   Inland, the Plaza de Cultura houses the National Theater and Modern Art Gallery and three museums. On the city’s northwestern outskirts, the Jardin Botanico Nacional is a calm retreat, with an orchid house and an aquatic plant house.

Shopping
The best buys in Santo Domingo are handcrafted native items, especially amber jewelry. A semiprecious stone of light blue, larimar, is the Dominican equivalent of turquoise.
   Ever since the Dominicans presented John F. Kennedy with what became his favorite rocker, visitors clamor to take home a replica of this famous rocking chair. To simplify transport, many rockers are sold unassembled. Other good buys include Dominican rum, hand-knit articles, macramé, ceramics, and crafts in native mahogany.
   The best shopping streets are El Conde, the oldest and most traditional shop-flanked avenue, and Avenida Mella. In the colonial section, La Atarazana is filled with galleries and gift and jewelry stores.
   A great side trip for the fashion-conscious is Altos de Chavón, located near the eastern town of La Romana. Known as the Heights of Chavón, it is a beautiful replica of a medieval hilltop town standing high above the Chavón River, complete with coral rock houses, festooned with colorful bougainvillea, and fashion and art boutiques galore. Altos de Chavón is home to an outpost of the renowned Parsons School of Design based in New York City. Altos de Chavón/Parsons School of Design, which is connected to the luxurious resort, Casa De Campo, turns out many talented designers each year who display their wares in the local boutiques before branching out to other cities and countries.

Outdoors and on the Beach
The Dominican Republic has some great beaches; unfortunately, none is located in Santo Domingo. The closest beach resort is 19 miles from Santo Domingo at Boca Chica. Clear, blue, shallow water, a fine white-sand beach, and a natural coral reef are the draws here.
   Golf and tennis are plentiful in Santo Domingo. The Santo Domingo Country Club has an 18-hole golf course that grants privileges to guests of most major hotels. The rule here is members first.
   Most major hotels have good tennis courts, especially the Santo Domingo Sheraton, El Embajador, and Gran Hotel Lina, which even non-guests can use. Guests at the Renaissance Jaragua Resort & Casino and the Hotel Santo Domingo use private-resident courts, some lit for night games.

Spectator Sports
The national sport of the Dominican Republic is baseball. From October to February, games are played at stadiums in Santo Domingo and elsewhere. Check the local paper for schedules and locations of the nearest game.
   Horse racing is big. Santo Domingo’s racetrack, Hipódromo Perla Antillana on Avenida San Cristóbal, schedules races on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 3:00 p.m. You can spend the day here and have lunch at the track. Admission is free.
   Polo, made famous during the dictatorship of Rafael Trujillo, is still a popular sport. Santo Domingo’s polo fields are at Sierra Prieta, where games are played on weekends.

Where to Stay
Santo Domingo has several fine hotels to choose from:
El Embajador Hotel Casino—Three miles southwest of the city center, this seven-story concrete and glass hotel was built on the grounds of a horse-racing track. It is home to two of the best restaurants in Santo Domingo: the Jade Garden, featuring Chinese cuisine; and the Embassy Club, a deluxe restaurant and nightclub with international cuisine. Avenida Sarasota 65, Santo Domingo, 800/463-6902.
Hotel Santo Domingo—Operated by Premier Resorts & Hotels, the Santo Domingo is a tasteful extravagance on 14 acres of tropical landscaped grounds, 15 minutes from downtown. It has four restaurants, an Olympic-size pool, tennis courts, and sauna. Avenida Independencia, Santo Domingo, 800/877-3643.
Renaissance Jaragua Hotel & Casino—Convenient to the city’s main attractions, this hotel is a splashy, candy-pink waterfront palace with luxuriously appointed rooms, the largest casino in the Caribbean, and a 100-seat Las Vegas-style showroom. Four restaurants, a 24-hour deli, the Jubilee Disco, and La Fiesta, a cabaret theater, are also located here. Avenida George Washington 367, Santo Domingo, 800/228-9898.
Sheraton Santo Domingo & Casino—A full business center attracts business visitors to this 11-story high-rise. It includes a coffee shop, café, piano bar, disco, casino, and two restaurants. Avenida George Washington 365, Santo Domingo, 800/325-3535.