Gourmet

A Table for Two
While February is a month for lovers, any day on a tropical island can hold romance. Several area restaurants will provide the ambiance you're imagining for an intimate dinner with someone special.

The buzz has been hot on one of Sanibel's newest fine restaurants: The Sanibel Steakhouse, serving only the finest USDA prime aged beef. These mouth-watering steaks are served in quietly elegant surroundings-white linen, candles, the works. The Steakhouse was created by Paul Gaeta, one of Sanibel's most successful restaurateurs. Fine wines and luscious desserts round out a menu that's sure to compete for your affection. Seating is limited, so reservations are a good idea. 1473 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel, 941/472-5700.

Since it re-opened last fall, Bellini's has provided that special environment that twosomes love. With warm colors and even warmer service, this fine northern Italian restaurant is a sure bet for a romantic evening. After all, who says love better than the Italians? Executive Chef David Sonzogni and Chef Joseph Vallini have several specials each evening, all of which come highly recommended. The wine list is superb. Outside seating is available; dinner can be served al fresco in a seductive environment until midnight. Reservations recommended. 11521 Andy Rosse Lane, Captiva, 941/472-6866.

Many islanders consider Andreas Bieri the host with the most. At his lovely Riviera restaurant, diners feel as pampered as if they were in the home of a close friend. Bieri's personal attention to detail makes any evening at Riviera a treat. Scrumptious northern Italian cuisine is complemented by fine wines, great service, and a beautiful interior (read: grand piano, fine art, a sexy bar). Reservations are highly recommended. 2761 West Gulf Drive, Sanibel, 941/472-1141.

Paul Gaeta's Jacaranda has long been a favorite for a special night out on Sanibel. Candles, a nice, quiet environment, and crisp linens set the stage for the fabulous seafood and steaks that follow. Diners who want to transition from one setting to another for a full night may opt to start on the patio at the raw bar and end the evening dancing in the lounge. Call for dinner reservations. 1223 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel, 941/472-1771.

Thistle Lodge has also been the setting for many an intimate evening. Nestled onto the beach off Gulf Drive, this charming restaurant has great water views and a rich history. 2255 West Gulf Drive, Sanibel, 941/472-9200.

Another historic setting loaded with charm is The Old Captiva House at 'Tween Waters Inn on Captiva. Hardwood floors, gingerbread detailing, and original drawings by J.N. "Ding" Darling complement this Olde Florida dining room. When the weather's nice, the beautiful outdoor patio provides seating under the stars. After dinner, the beach is just a short stroll away-who could resist? Captiva Drive, Captiva, 941/472-5161.

If eating while seated outdoors on a balmy tropical evening rings your bell, ask for a patio seat at the The Terrace Tropical Grill on Captiva. This fairly new establishment has a Floribbean menu that's full of surprises. (We recommend the coconut shrimp.) Andy Rosse Lane, in Captiva's Village area, 941/395-1677.

Since opening in 1996, the French-owned and operated Village Cafe on Captiva has developed quite a following. Its open kitchen is the hub of activity at dinnertime. Tile floors and interesting art and antiques complement the plates, which are artful themselves. (You may never see anything so beautiful as the paté appetizer special.) A nice wine selection and fabulous desserts round out a nice evening. 14970 Captiva Drive, 941/472-1956.

A small bistro just made for intimate evenings, the Sunshine Cafe on Captiva has been the setting for romance for a decade. The Sunshine achieves the impossible-a cozy ambiance with a clean, crisp feel. Linen tablecloths are crowned with white paper; even Rauschenberg has been known to doodle with the crayons provided on each table. The cafe's wine list is to die for, the salad forks are chilled, and hearing the nightly specials is like attending performance art. Diners may choose from seafood, steaks, and several popular salads and appetizers (don't miss the gumbo). Seating is available both indoors and out, and all seats are highly coveted. Al fresco seating provides more privacy than indoor tables. Call ahead. 14900 Captiva Drive, in Captiva Village Square, 941/472-6200.

The owner of Sunshine has partnered with another successful island restaurateur to create The Sunset Grill, a particularly romantic spot for dinner (breakfast and lunch are also served). Located at Blind Pass, just before the bridge from Sanibel to Captiva, this cozy grill has water views, nice staff, and fabulous food (steaks are excellent). Wine selection is terrific, and an open kitchen lends much to the ambiance at this tiny establishment. Only nine tables make reservations almost always necessary for dinner. 6536 Pine Avenue, Sanibel, 941/472-2333.

On an island known for its beaches, is it any wonder there are three romantic restaurants with names involving various stages of sunlight? At Twilight Cafe, a worthy contender in the barrier islands' brace of romantic dinner spots, even the seats at the bar are sexy, facing the open grill and chef Billy Thurman's creative kitchen. Owner Robert Parks describes his food as eclectic American style, featuring oak-grilled seafood and steaks, as well as fresh pasta. The setting is minimal yet intimate; small linen-covered tables make for a cozy feel. Give consideration to the wine list and a fabulous creme brulée. Reservations are suggested. Closed Sundays. 751 Tarpon Bay Road, Sanibel, 941/472-8818.

The opening of Jean-Paul's French Corner on Sanibel is anxiously awaited each year. Open only for season, this locally owned French restaurant is the real McCoy. Now in its 21st season, Jean-Paul's offers French cuisine nightly by chef Eric Luc. Call for reservations. 708 Tarpon Bay Road, Sanibel. 941/472-1493.

Outside seating under moonlit palms is hard to beat. Board your boat, or call a water taxi, and get thee to North Captiva for a meal at the tropical Mango Island Cafe. True to its setting, this delightfully casual cafe serves tantalizing island cuisine using local fish. Sauces are made from the fresh fruits and vegetables available in or grown on the islands, particularly the mango. Everything is prepared to order. Best of all, diners can order the entrée that has put this cafe on the map: its Blue Crab Burrito. Wine, beer, and daiquiris are served; a fabulous dessert menu awaits as well. Dockage is available for boats up to 30 feet. Call for directions. Reservations are suggested. North Captiva, 941/395-1500.

Not too many places on the barrier islands can claim having served romantic dinners for 50 years. The Temptation can. A bastion of tradition on romantic Gasparilla Island, this local favorite celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1997. The Temp, as it's fondly called, specializes in seafood entrées. It's a casual place with two dining rooms, one of which offers a lighter fare menu. This Olde Florida-style restaurant is easy to find, right on the main street in downtown Boca Grande. Full bar. Reservations are preferred. Closed on Sundays. 350 Park Avenue, Boca Grande, 941/964-2610 .

Boca Grande's South Beach Restaurant has a setting that's hard to beat. Directly on the beach and facing the Gulf of Mexico, this 4-year-old eatery serves seafood and sunsets all at the same time. Casual dress is encouraged, and South Beach has a full bar. Wednesday is all-you-can-eat-shrimp night. Reservations are recommended. Open seven days until 2:00 a.m. Serving food until 10:00 p.m. Call for directions by water. 777 Gulf Blvd., Boca Grande, 941/964-0765.

PJ's Sea Grille will be familiar to many as the former Theater Restaurant in Boca Grande. You'll find the same management and staff at this downtown restaurant located in the historic San Marcos Theater Building. "Innovative island cuisine" is the way the fare is billed at PJ's; the seafood specials often come "directly from the boat to the restaurant." While an extensive wine list and full bar are appreciated, it is the 250-gallon saltwater aquarium that steals the show. A screened patio makes outside dining possible. Closed Sundays. 321 Park Avenue, Boca Grande, 941/964-0806.

Uncle Henry's is fine dining in a casual atmosphere. Found on the north end of Gasparilla Island (the first restaurant you come to after crossing the bridge), Uncle Henry's has served steaks and delicious fresh seafood since 1987. A house specialty is fresh farm-raised littleneck clams from Charlotte Harbor. The restaurant's separate bar is handsome, and a water view is available by request. Open seven nights in season. 5800 Gasparilla Road, Boca Grande. 941/964-2300.

Give yourself over to the seduction of the tropics. Have a lovely evening with someone special. Tonight could easily become your favorite island memory.

-LBM