Explorer

What better way to see the Gulf of Mexico's magnificent sunset than from a boat. The islands have a number of tour-boat operators that run sunset and moonlight cruises. Perhaps the best known is Captiva Cruises sunset serenade trip on the Lady Chadwick, out of the marina at South Seas Plantation on Captiva. When I make a morning call to book for that evening, a friendly reservationist explains that the cruise lasts an hour, and the boat leaves at 5:30 p.m. (Departure time varies depending on the time of year; it's pretty early as we round the winter solstice.) Captiva Cruises requires at least 15 passengers before it will go out, never a problem during season.

I call back a few hours later to double-check and find out we're set to go. Because parking inside South Seas Plantation is limited, passengers coming from outside the resort can park at Chadwick's Square and ride the trolley to the marina. About 30 passengers board the Gosnold Spirit (the Lady Chadwick has not yet returned from a dolphin and wildlife adventure cruise earlier in the afternoon). We settle into chairs on the open deck of the ship, which can hold 149 passengers. Beer, soft drinks, and chips are available on the enclosed deck below.

The ship sails out into Pine Island Sound, heading past Land's End at the tip of Captiva. In a corner of the upper deck, well-known local musician Danny Morgan sits on a stool, guitar in hand, singing, I think I've got a touch of island fever. Palm trees and views I can't believe... Weatherwise, it's a glorious night. The sun is setting quickly. It's my favorite kind, all pinks, with a touch of orange and violet. Oh, Captiva! sings Morgan. It's like a honeymoon all over again. This cruise is so relaxing, says Richard Biondi, standing next to his wife, Maureen. Their friends, Bob and Gina Giaquinto, agree: It's wonderful. All hail from White Plains, New York, and take the sunset cruise every year while staying in their time-share unit at South Seas.

Lightning suddenly flashes through far-off clouds. Then cameras flash as passengers snap photos of the bonus show in the sky.

Red lights twinkle in the distance as the trolley turns around at Land's End. Darkness settles in as the Gosnold Spirit starts to complete its second loop. As we sail toward the dock, Morgan wraps up the evening with Sanibel Sunset.

Marion Kranichfeld, an artist from Rye, New York, who has had a cottage on Sanibel for more than 25 years, stands next to me. She's excited that Captiva Cruises owner Paul McCarthy has introduced a Gold Club membership plan this year. For $50, a member gets unlimited passage for one year on most of his company's scheduled cruises. It's such a great idea for people who live here, Kranichfeld says. 15041 Captiva Drive, Captiva, 941/472-5300.

Several other evening cruises are regularly scheduled in local waters. Greg LeBlanc and Barb Renneke, owners of Wildside Adventures, offer an eco-friendly way to view the sunset. They lead kayak tours out of their base at McCarthy's Marina on Captiva. ÒWe prefer a day's notice to book the nightly guided tour, so we can judge our energy level, explains Renneke, laughing. ÒThe time depends on the sunset. We go out an hour before and come back an hour after, seven nights a week, all year, as long as the weather is nice. Wildside Adventures tries to limit the number of participants to 10, but will book larger groups. McCarthy's Marina, Captiva, 941/39K-AYAK (395-2925).

When daylight saving time ends each autumn, The Stars and Stripes embarks on a 5 p.m. sunset cruise, seven nights per week, until spring. It leaves from the Sanibel Marina's Boat House for a 60-minute journey. The 28-foot boat, which sports a canopy top, holds 22 passengers. Adults are offered complimentary beer and wine; soft drinks are available for children and non-imbibing grown-ups. Reservations are recommended. 634 North Yachtsman Drive, Sanibel, 941/472-2531. Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa, at Punta Rassa in Ft. Myers, is home port to the Sanibel Harbour Princess. The 100-foot boat, which holds 160 people, makes a two-hour sunset cruise, weather permitting, on different days of the week, with a schedule that changes by the week. Dinner is served on the ship's lower deck, or passengers may choose to purchase cruise tickets for hors d'oeuvres and champagne on the upper level. Reservations are required. 17260 Harbour Pointe Drive, Ft. Myers, 941/466-2128.

For the past 11 years, Adventures in Paradise has run sunset champagne cruises on its 40-foot, powered catamaran, Miss Paradise, which holds 49 passengers. It leaves from Port Sanibel Marina, located in Ft. Myers one mile before the Sanibel Causeway tollbooth, seven days a week, all year round, weather permitting. The cruise begins about 40 minutes before sunset and lasts about 90 minutes. Miss Paradise's route depends on the weather, but usually travels along Sanibel's coastline, past Bird Island, which is beautiful because the birds fly there at night, and then by the Sanibel Lighthouse, says co-owner Evelyn Stewart. Tropical music adds to the mood aboard ship. Passengers can help themselves to complimentary champagne and soft drinks. The company's ubiquitous green-and-yellow trolley picks up island visitors and residents at regularly scheduled stops by condos, resorts, and homes. Reservations are requested. 14341 Port Comfort Road, Ft. Myers, 941/472-8443.