Getaways

Crossing the tiny bridge that connects Sanibel and Captiva Islands gives me a sense of joy completely out of proportion to the size of the trip. I can't help it. This scenic bit of island geography is truly special, worthy of the many postcards it has generated over the years.

The Gulf of Mexico rolls in on one side, constantly shifting a sugary beach that provides one of the best sunset views in the world. The view to the other side looks up the pass and beyond Wulfert Channel to the open waters of Pine Island Sound. Fishermen congregate on this bridge night and day. The sandbars below are havens for beachcombers, sunbathers, and birdwatchers. Blind Pass is a spectacular spot with a purity of spirit.

Small wonder, then, that The Castaways resort at Blind Pass holds such appeal. Stretching across Sanibel's northernmost end, The Castaways reaches from the island's wildlife-rich bayside to the shell-filled beaches of the gulf. Comprised of several historic cottages, a few efficiencies, good-sized marina, and small pool, this retreat is an ideal choice for travelers who appreciate simplicity, convenience, and "olde Florida" charm.

I stayed in a gulf-front two-bedroom cottage, where white-tiled floors and tropical fabrics on the furniture encouraged a barefoot attitude. The bedrooms had ceiling fans, which are all a guest might need in the winter. A screened porch welcomed either newfound shell collections, friendly card games, or dinner served hot off the outdoor grill provided for each cottage; many a fish has met its fate on a Castaways grill.

Although the kitchen was clean and well equipped, I elected to visit a nearby eatery. Three restaurants are just a short stroll away, rounding out the little neighborhood dubbed "Santiva." Castaways guests can choose from the upscale and inventive Mad Hatter, with a gulf view; the alluring Sunset Grill, which begins pleasing palates at the breakfast hour; and the Lazy Flamingo, a must for anyone who loves fresh grouper, ice cold beer, and Caesar salad. Each venue adheres to the island's strict dress code: casual. Part of the successful Rochester Resorts Group that includes Captiva's 'Tween Waters Inn, The Castaways attracts adventurers as well as beachgoers. Its full-service marina is home to several professional fishing guides who stay quite busy. Guests may also rent canoes for exploring backwaters.

Castaways is a great vantage point from which to explore the islands. Seventeen miles of Sanibel bike paths begin here, and bike rentals are a Castaways amenity. For those who prefer to sit and watch the world go by, thatched chickee huts and picnic tables offer shady respite. The office recycles guests' paperbacks in an informal library, the kind that expects sunscreen on the pages. Even the books here have a history-airport tokens of tropical anticipation that was, no doubt, relieved under swaying palms. In the ever-changing landscape that is Florida, The Castaways at Blind Pass pays homage to the islands Sanibel and Captiva once were, simple and full of life's quiet little pleasures-a seashell at your feet, a tug on your line, an uninterrupted nap. And then there's that bridgeÉ -Libby Boren McMillan

The Castaways at Blind Pass on Sanibel. Waterfront and waterview efficiencies; one-, two-, and three-bedroom cottages; poolside efficiencies; 800/375-0152 or 941/472-1252.